Challenges, Setbacks, Resilience and Self-healing

5/14/17: Six weeks to Shasta. I’m back on the AT. There’s a song running in my head—Another Op’nin’, Another Show*—except the lyrics have morphed: Six weeks en I’ve gotten the curse; four weeks en conditionin’ couldn’t be worse; two weeks, en I’m ever so meek; then outa the earth comes the big first peak! *(Another Op'nin', Another Show is the opening number of Cole Porter's 1948 musical Kiss Me, Kate.)

Let me explain. Six weeks to Mt. Shasta and my conditioning has been going downhill for nearly 75 days. I think, believe, hope it has bottomed out and I’m heading back up. But I’m still bleeding. That’s going to be a limiting factor for recovery. And Shasta looms.

Hiked alone again today. It’s Mother’s Day. Sun’s out, temp’s 55 to 60. There’s a sea of vibrant green everywhere I look. One can still see into the forest but the new leaves cut the distance to less than half what it was in March.

Challenges and setbacks are not simply due to the elevation, steepness or length of climbs, or to the age of the climber. At 70 we all have our histories of physical trauma and life-related wear and tear. We carry our health concerns with us as much as we carry our backpacks. If you’ve read earlier post in this blog you might have noticed there’s a gap between Mt. Mitchell, NC (6684’) at the end of March and this entry. Four days after Mitchell, with team members Patrick, Cara and Tom (plus mountain dogs Diego and Dana) I skied up Red Lake Peak (10,069’) south of Lake Tahoe on alpine touring skis (more on that at a later point). The spring setback had already begun, but it had yet to hit me full force. Soon it would--not like a ton of bricks but like a pound of toxic dust.

For those who have experienced something similar this may evoke “been there, done that.” To others it may seem totally alien. In me spring tree pollens cause severe inflammation, painful cramps and internal bleeding. Medications—antihistamines to steroids—don’t stop it. Diet has little effect. Supplements—probiotics, prebiotics, anti-inflammatory herbs and oils… well, maybe in combination they ameliorate the intensity of the symptoms. Still from the first cedar pollen of late winter through the red maples and box elders, to the ash and oak I’m battling flare-ups, bleeding and anemia… not good things for one in training to climb 14,000’ glacial peaks. Talk about a challenge!

With few switchbacks this climb is relatively steep.

With few switchbacks this climb is relatively steep.

Today is the first day back on a trail of any significance since Red Lake Peak on April 1st. This is the same ridge hiked in January and February, though this section—from the Rt. 341 trailhead south toward Mt. Algo and on to Schaghticoke Mt—on average is steeper. There are not a lot of switchbacks on the up trails, the flats are short, and there’s a pretty good descent into the ravine between peaks where a stream is gushing from the heavy rains of the previous week. Where the trail crosses the creek, water crashes against the stepping stones and rushes through the gaps between. I test the first few stones… the rocks are slippery… the leap to the next stone is about four feet, and that stone is under four inches of fast flow. I check my pocket for my phone. Usually I keep it in a zip lock bag, but I’d forgotten to grab one before I left. So, I’m thinking, if I slip off, the pool below the rock is maybe five feet deep, I get soaked, my phone gets soaked, my training schedule takes a hit because I’m not prepared. I know the procedures if you’re on a long hike, but today’s goal is to get in 4+ miles with a 25# pack on relatively steep terrain, and get back in time to cook Mother’s Day dinner. Getting dunked will disrupt the plan.

The rains of the past week made the stream crossing a bit dicey.

The rains of the past week made the stream crossing a bit dicey.

I back out, move up stream. After maybe 300 yards I find an old tree fallen across the stream. The bark is soggy and loose, but I decide I’ve gone far enough off the trail so I pull myself up, stand, test the log, take a few tentative steps, then cross.

But we were talking about challenges. They are not simply the feats themselves, but how we react to them, how we view them, accept them, meet them face on or shirk them. Do we persevere if our first foray fails? Do we bang our heads against the wall in frustration, curse those who are more physically fortunate, or do we find an alternate route on which to advance?

I suspect my training log looks a bit different than most. I track workouts, training hikes, durations and intensities, but I also track ingestion, excretion and bleeding. That’s what you do when you have idiopathic ulcerative colitis. I say idiopathic because every gastroenterologist I’ve ever spoken to has said we (meaning the medical community) don’t know what causes it. They also say there is no cure; they can only treat the symptoms. This infuriates me; sets up a dual challenge. One to keep me from asking them, “Then why am I in your office?” and; two, to convince them pollen is the main trigger. My medical history is consistent with this explanation. Early spring, early pollen season, early onset of symptoms; late spring, late pollen season… well, you get the idea. I try to keep the meds simple. Suffice it to say I believe in ten years the current standard protocols for UC will be viewed to be as crude and as archaic as George Washington’s doctors bleeding him to death to get rid of bad humors.

Like so many guys turning 70, physical challenges are not confined to just one part or one system. Some of my undercarriage has been replaced… ah, that is, I’ve a titanium hip with chromium-nickel-cobalt large-ball and socket. Now that is something that works well! It was the recovery from the 2006 surgery that got me into hiking and climbing.

Wish I could do the same for my left knee. No ACL, no meniscus, no condyle cartilage. After damaging the joint playing football in 1966 my knee would randomly lock. A year later that happened as I was jumping down a terraced hillside; landed on my heel and drove the tibia through the joint and into the femur breaking the ends of both bones. It kind of wreaked havoc with other structures, too. There were no replacement knees in 1967, no artificial cartilage. They basically took everything out, smoothed out the bones, and told me if I kept active the bones would burnish themselves against each other. The joint hasn’t been right since, but it works. Didn’t keep me from getting drafted; nor did it stop me from playing league soccer until I was 56. Who would have thought?! On downhills, particularly if I’m not wearing my brace, the femur slides forward on the tibial plateau, but I’ve learn to disregard the crunching--when you know what it is, and know that it really isn’t doing more damage, you can displace the thought.

Because today is a return-to-training hike I take it easy. The day could not be more pleasant. I pause to take a few pictures atop Schaghticoke peak, sit beside an Eastern Ribbon snake sunning itself on the next rock. The clouds are beginning to gray. Rain is forecast, but not for a few hours. Then, within minutes the wind picks up. Time to head back.

View from Schaghticoke Mountain.

View from Schaghticoke Mountain.

Throughout the setback I’ve tried to keep up a minimal training schedule: two mile hike with 15-pound pack here, a dynamic motion work out there.  All the gastroenterologists point out that UC is an auto-immune disease, and that the trigger isn’t important once the disease has progressed to that stage. They want their patients on immuno-suppressant therapy, but that comes with collateral damage potentially far worse than the UC symptoms.

My view is that our bodies are self-healing organisms, that we have encoded in our DNA specific plans of action to deal with injury or invasion of our corporal environment. But you’ve got to give your body a chance. That means removing trauma and toxic elements; realizing that most pharmaceuticals are poison; doing what you can to facilitate healing; using pharmaceuticals only if more natural cures don’t work. To me, immuno-suppressants for life, is a life, and early death, sentence.

Can you will yourself back to health? Does positive attitude and action bolster the immune system in a medically meaningful way? Can one resolve to be resilient? Many of us know people who are “professional patients;” people who follow a track the opposite of what we are here encouraging. But between, there are people who are mentally tough, who take all the right steps, and who still succumb to affliction. Resolve does not guarantee recovery; resilience is complex; and the path to recovery may have numerous switchbacks and dead end trails. But… ya gotta try.

The wind has picked up considerably. I’m back at the steam. This time I head downstream to look for a better place to cross, then decide if I get wet now it’s okay as I’m on my way back to the trailhead. As I approach the stepping stones and logjam from below I see a lovely yellow and green stick on the rock I’m about to… oops, not a stick, a yellow gartersnake. Most of them are black with yellow striping; this guy’s yellow with black and green. I nudge him off the rock with the tip of my hiking pole and he slithers into the stream.

On the other side and still dry: I pick up the pace. As easy as I took it on the way out, I’m now pushing it on the way back, and feeling stronger with each step. Cloud cover has darkened the overhead. Rain feels imminent. Another tune begins streaming in my head. I’m thinking of individuals, and societies, and nations, all facing challenges with analogous elements, all having the same options and same tools to confront or to avoid. Some challenges may be easy to conquer; others may be beyond our abilities to meet, way beyond our capacity, completely impossible. But how do we know? How do we… should we… the tune playing in my head is from Man of La Mancha: To Dream the Impossible Dream.

It is now raining quite hard.

Rebuilding Foundations

Macedonia State Park, CT to Mt. Mitchell, NC

These hikes are 775 miles, 4400 feet of elevation and a month apart, but to me they are very close together.  Let me explain. We’ll come back to other climbs, to Setbacks and Challenges, in the next post.

The section of the Blue Flash trail in Macedonia State Park that I covered on February 19th was only a bit over 4 miles, so the hike was not long. My objective was to move steadily, at pace, over slippery rocks and melting snow. There were two steep up sections, one steep down, and one very steep down that required alternate use of poles and hand grips and a short glissade—that is, sitting on one’s butt and skimming down the snow cover as if on a playground slide. The reason for moving steadily was to maintain a higher heart rate thus laying the foundation for the more difficult climbs to come.

The standard formula for base training is to take 220 minus your age, then multiply the results by 0.80, or 220 – 70 = 150 x .8 = 120. 120! That’s all? Are they kidding? The standard formula applies to average guys. I think, after these past years’ health issues, I'm pretty average; but if I go back 10 years when I was in better shape those standards never seemed to make any sense.  Hopefully as this training continues, and as the challenges become progressively more difficult, those numbers will again become ultra conservative. If I again feel like 40 I might be looking at 220 – 40 = 180 x .8 = 144. That would be the target heart rate for sustained activity for a 40-year old; 162 when pushing the intensity.

I take my pulse after the first up section—120. Not bad, but I feel as if I’m dogging it. On the relatively level trail between ups I relax even though I’m moving faster. The day is gorgeous. A turkey vulture silently rides the rising air current above the west side of the ridge. He swoops low enough overhead for me to see individual feathers. Cool. Into the next up. My pulse is now 140. That’s 93.3% of max—supposedly too high for a guy just months short of 70. But I feel fine.

 In a little over a month I’m heading down to Mt. Mitchell in North Carolina—at 6684’ it's the highest peak east of the Mississippi. Then it’'' be out to Lake Tahoe to learn to climb on alpine skis in preparation for Mt Shasta this summer. The Connecticut hikes are like the footings of the foundation.

Davidson, NC, 3/26; two days before Mt. Mitchell and the Old Mitchell Trail: Flew down four days ago for a family wedding. Great celebration: congratulations Joey and Carolyn.  After all the festivities were over Kate and I popped into The Flatiron Grill in Davidson for a late evening repast. Good food, good service, as one should expect from any decent restaurant, but truth is it was late and I was nearly falling asleep in my sweet potato fries. I apologized to the waitress, mentioned the wedding.

                “Oh, where are you from?” She politely asked.

                “Connecticut.”

                “Me too!” She beamed.

                “Oh, whereabouts?”

                “A small town in the northeast.”

We chatted for a few more minutes, then she added, “I have a 19-month old. My husband’s deployed. He left three weeks ago for a year. When he gets back we want to move back to Connecticut. Both our families are there. I had to quit my day job because childcare is so expensive, but back home both our moms are excited to babysit…”

More foundations: In 1978 while I was writing The 13th Valley I had the wonderful opportunity to work in Larkspur, CA with a crew replacing the crumbling foundation of a historic Victorian mansion. We jacked the house up less than ¼ inch so as not to disturb walls, plumbing or wiring, then section by section we removed the old stone foundation and poured new concrete footing and walls; finally bringing everything level and lowering the house onto the cured substructure. No disruption above, but a totally new, far stronger foundation below that should last for centuries.

Mt Mitchell; Tuesday 3/28: On the Blue Ridge Highway approaching Mt Mitchell State Park. It is one of those days where the sky is picture perfect blue with interestingly shaped clouds that evoke thoughts of fluffy animals. Each turn reveals a new, amazing vista. I want to stop, take pictures; but I also want to get to the trailhead. The online description of the hike calls it moderately rough. I’m not sure what that means, and I want to give us plenty of time. Kate is going to hike with me. I’ve been building up a base for this for three months. As a nurse she walks miles during every shift, but those are different miles, in some ways far more difficult, but they’re not rutted ups and downs.

Kate on Mt. Mitchell. Rain, wind and fog--the day was wonderful.

Kate on Mt. Mitchell. Rain, wind and fog--the day was wonderful.

As we turn from the highway onto the park road the sky closes. Perhaps we’re in one of those fluffy animals. At the ranger station (trailhead) the wind is howling, the temperature has dropped 15 degrees, and fog obscures peaks and valleys. We’re here. We’re going to climb. We check in with the ranger. He issues standard cautions, asks if we’re prepared for lots mud and wet. I think he’s chuckling to himself, thinking these old folk are not going to make this climb.

From the office we take a few moments to use the facilities, change to hiking boots, add a layer of clothing. I meet a fellow who is headed up to an adjacent peak—part of his job. Weekly he climbs to a collection station to gather data on particulates dissolved in whatever precipitation has occurred. Later in his lab he’ll analyze the content to determine the pollution carried in by the winds. I mention the Adirondacks, the acid rain that wiped out many lake fish, and many trees; and the recovery that has happened in the past quarter century. He explains how the local phenomenon is similar, different. It’s another foundation to think about.

We climb. Actually we descend so far we begin to think we’ve headed in the wrong direction. We check the trail map. It’s gotta be right! But it doesn’t feel right. We retrace our steps to the last trail marker, turn again and continue down. Then up. And up. In places the trail parallels a road that goes to the peak. That feels like cheating. Other spots it moves away from the road, dips into rock crevasses too narrow to go through face on; pops up over crags then drops you into mud puddles. In the trees there is little wind but when the trail comes back to the crest the wind howls and we re-zip our jackets. As windy, foggy, muddy and wet as it is, it’s actually very pleasant. The greens in the woods here are more varied than those up north. Some of the mosses are so vibrant they seem to glow in the dank caverns.

I’m back to thinking about foundations. At the moment the news is full of reports about the current administration attempting to replace ObamaCare. There’s a wonderful section on healthcare and management—on its evolution from the time of Norman Rockwell’s drawing of a doctor in his office holding a stethoscope to the chest of a doll held out to him by a little girl, to the corporate hospital, massive insurance companies, complex government bureaucracies and the Affordable Care Act—in the book The Life of Men, by Dr. Jeffrey Rabuffo. It seems to me there is a tremendous amount of screaming going on by pundits and politicians. If the ACA is to be repealed and replaced, why do people on the extreme ends of the issue think it can (or should) be done with the stroke of a pen? It took years for it to be implemented, for the new bureaucracy to be established (actually there are elements that are still unfolding). It has changed the financial landscape of medical care along with the medical infrastructure. Parts of it are crumbling and cannot sustain healthcare to nearly one-third of the country. . Still, wiping it out overnight would produce chaos… but that doesn’t seem to be in any of the actual proposals. Instead it seems that the structure will be jacked up about a quarter inch, and then section by section the crumbling parts will be removed and replaced with something solid enough to last centuries. No disruption above, a fixed social system below.

From the peak of Mt. Mitchell just about all that could be seen was fog.

Super Bowl: Deer, Bobcat, Coyotes, Mountain Lions...

Training Hike #5: Appalachian Trail – St. John’s Ledges to Caleb’s Peak to 341 road loop back; 4.82 miles; 5 February 2017 (Super Bowl Sunday); sky threatening snow.

The ledges are steep, steep as the top of 14,000-foot Mt Bierstadt in Colorado, but the distance is shorter and the elevation gain is minimal, maybe 600 feet. Because of increasing snow and ice cover on the granite the going becomes tenuous. About halfway up I collapse my hiking poles and stow them on my pack so I can use my fingers to hook ridges in the rocks and pull myself up. This is not a technical climb. This is an old guy not wishing to slip, drop six or eight feet and clunk his noggin or scrap off his beard. Or nose. I’m slow and deliberate. This really isn’t very safe, and as usual, I’m the sole hiker on trail.

To the right a relatively flat trail section between the lowest ledge and a middle ledge; to the left a portion of the lower face. Only spotty snow here, but by several hundred feet up it increased to 50% coverage.

To the right a relatively flat trail section between the lowest ledge and a middle ledge; to the left a portion of the lower face. Only spotty snow here, but by several hundred feet up it increased to 50% coverage.

The upper ledge leads to a false crest. The weather is worsening. This has happened in a short time and over a short space. The wind picks up, snow squalls dither, the sky descends into a darker shade of winter gray. Decision time. I’ve really just started, but if I go on then return and snow has made the ledges really slick… hmmm. I can either abort now, descend before the weather hits, or go on but return by a different route. I head southwest toward Caleb’s Peak.

The hike to the second peak is steep but not bouldering steep. Again no one is in sight. There is one human track iced into the trail, I think about 24 to 48 hours old, heading north. There are literally hundreds of deer tracks on and crisscrossing the trail, and amid these are feline and canine prints—bobcat and coyote.

As a solo hiker this makes me uncomfortable. I unhook my small cylinder of pepper spray and clip it to my jacket pocket for ease of access. Truth is, I’m kinda nervous. Although pack coyotes have taken down lone hikers, I’m more concerned about a mountain lion. They’re rare in Connecticut but about a year back one was spotted down by my home trotting through a neighbor’s yard with a fawn in its maw. They stalk silently, attack viciously from behind. Plentiful deer might attract them.

The thought makes me uncomfortable and I miss the next flash and lose the trail. Damn! This is an easy hike. I’m only two miles from the heart of Kent. I chastise myself, retrace my steps… had missed the turn where the trail had bent back upon itself before again going up.

The AT actually passes below Caleb’s Peak so of course I leave it and climb. Now the sky lightens. Looking east I feel as if I can see all the way to Waterbury. A`, so it’s only Waterbury! Hey, it’s an early training hike. And I feel like I’m on top of the world looking down on creation… oops! Song lyrics I sing to my grandson when I babysit… poor kid subjected to grandpa’s monotone… but it puts him to sleep better than Rock-a-bye Baby or Soft Kitty.

Decision time again. I think the threat of snow has passed. I could go back but the distance is less than I’d planned, so I continue on until I hit Rte. 341. Now it’s a road hike back. To keep it interesting I pick up the pace, get a cadence going in my head.

Decisions and balance: for me, scrambling up the ledges, crossing icy rocks, is a test of balance, and approaching 70 my balance certainly isn’t what it once was. Can it improve? If I push the envelope a bit more with each training hike will it return? Seems to me I should ask this question of the country. We’ve lost our balance. What needs to be done to regain it?

Total distance: 4.82 miles. Time—do I subtract out the time talking to road walkers? If so, about 2 hours and 15 minutes: 2.15 miles per hour. The section at the ledges was slow going, but dang! at that rate it’ll take me days to get up Shasta. Ugh!

Ah well. Time to go watch the game.

Dividing Lines

Training Hike #4: Appalachian Trail, 29 January 2017; Bull’s Bridge to Indian Point; 8.1 miles, 1000' +/- elev. gain (2000' +/- cumulative), base temp 36, ridge line temp 28. [Not a major hike by any means, but I’m reminded of talking to through-hikers years ago, who had trekked from

From Indian Point looking east. 

From Indian Point looking east. 

Georgia, who had just crossed northern Pennsylvania, New Jersey and New York, only to be shocked at the steepness and difficult of these low Berkshires.]

Dividing Lines

From the ridge between Bull’s Bridge and Indian Point, looking east one can peer east, down upon the Housatonic River and the tiny cars on CT Route 7, or west across Old Rt. 22 and Ten Mile River in NY. Nowadays, as we zoom along on Interstate highways, we tend to think of state lines as arbitrary--if we think of them at all. But thinking back to our colonial period this ridge was a barrier difficult to cross. It makes the demarcation between states understandable. The ridge, part of the Berkshire chain, extends north separating Massachusetts and Vermont from New York.

Today I hiked alone… again, which is nice. No one else on the trail except at the very beginning a guy walking his dog. Chilly along the road, temperature dropping as I zigzag up the east face. As the elevation increases it gets quite cool but I’m stripping off layers and sweating. At the lowest point on the ridge the trail is icy but south-facing--lots of bare rock. Half way to Indian Point the trail is slick and the ice continuous. It makes one focus. All is good.

Two hundred and fifty one years ago the winter in the Berkshires varied from a bit too warm to freeze the lakes solid enough to drag cannon-laden sledges across the ice, to cold bitter enough to freeze soldiers driving oxen. On January 18th, 1776 Colonel Henry Knox left Fort Ticonderoga with 58 cannon weighing 120,000 pounds. Crossing the Berkshire Mountains required 80 yoke of oxen. From 1776 by David McCullough:

   …snow in the Berkshires lay thick, exactly as needed but the mountains, steep and   tumbled and dissected by deep, narrow valleys, posed a challenge as formidable as any. …Knox…wrote of climbing peaks “From which we might almost have seen all the kingdoms of the earth. … It appeared to me almost a miracle that people with heavy loads should be able to get up and down such hills…”

As I walked I thought about this project, Peaking At 70, about the logistics, the budget, the time frame. And I thought about Henry Knox and the soldier under his command. Climbing, dragging the cannon up the steep slopes was difficult, but going downhill was more treacherous. Sledges had to be lowered inch by inch, roped to trees and men. Oxen don’t work in reverse.

I’ve come to the conclusion this project needs to be done in steps. Isn’t that the way of all projects? At first conception it was one big picture. Now I begin to see the pieces, how they’ll be arranged, organized; what parts can be handled, which ones will need to be postponed, what might need abandoning. Not the climbs, and certainly not the training, but the number of people. This blog will be the foundation for the book; the videos the base for the documentary; the interviews the fodder for the enlightenment--Rediscovering America.

The original idea was kind of a Travels With Charley (Steinbeck and his dog) trip… a trip to gauge the pulse of the nation at a level below the raging national news media. Not sure how it morphed into getting a group of old guys to cross western glaciers and peak above 14,000 feet. That's not important, now, but what is is this land, this nation, from purple mountain majesty to sea to shining sea… how did it happen... what has happened to it?!

Think about it: 120,000 pounds of cannons, plus the sledges and all the gear needed to sustain men and animals on a trek across the Berkshires in the dead of winter. That feat makes the 1954 trials of the Red Chinese Army bring artillery to Dien Bien Phu look like a cakewalk. To my mind it is comparable to Hannibal crossing the Alps in 218 BC. This is our heritage.

The ridge rises and falls as it runs north; most of the elevation gain was achieved ascending the east face, but there are short, sharp ups and downs. Imagine trying to climb, to cross this obstacle with any significant weight. For training I’ve about 25 pounds in my pack—way more than needed for a quick day hike. Descending is more difficult. What’s true for cannon-laden sledges is true for 70-year old knees. I’d better consider wearing a neoprene sleeve and my G-II Unloader brace. That’s one of the challenges of peaking at 70!

Once across the mountains Knox’ journey to the outskirts of Boston was a bit like a Memorial Day parade with farmers leaving their fields to watch the spectacle. On the night of 4 March 1776, under the cover of low, dense fog, those cannon were towed to the tops of the twin hills of Dorchester Heights, and by mid-morning the next day British General William Howe knew he’d been beaten. Soon he ordered the withdrawal of British forces from Boston. America was on the rise.

Now, 241 years later, America rising seems to be not only in question, but seemingly, to some, to be undesirable. So I have a few questions I’d like to ask. They’re designed to not extract quick TV-learned, radio-learned, or internet-learned responses. Today’s pundits all talk to niche audiences, and to hold their listeners/readers they speak in bias. But if you ask a man or a woman to look forward 25 or 50 years, and you ask what does he or she want for his daughter or her son, the answer seldom is less immigrants, giant border walls, free abortions or genderless bathrooms.

Look forward two, three, five decades. What do you want for your fellow countrymen?

What divides us, and what keeps us united? At one time the great obstacles were physical. The peaks and valleys, the ridges and rock faces are still there, but they are no longer the barriers of our separation. We need a paradigm shift. We need to see each other in the light of these and other different interrogatories, and not in the shadows of nouns.

Conception: Rediscovery, Paradigm Shifts and Peaking

As noted on the peakingat70.com website (but expanded here), the original idea for this project came to me on New Year’s Day 2017 as I hiked up Under Mountain Trail to the AT (Appalachian Trail) and on to the peak of Bear Mountain, Connecticut’s highest point. I was finally feeling well enough to attempt this modest climb, and my mind was bouldering from thought to thought. The day was overcast but warm for January 1st, conditions which reflected my mood.

The preceding year had been fraught with flare-ups and remissions, and with nasty political turmoil. If news reports are to be believed our country was, and is, more divided, and its people more polarized, than at any other point in my life… a state I found (and find) deeply disturbing. But is it true? And if so,Why? And what can be done about it?

New Year's Day 2017, Appalachian Trail, Salisbury, CT

New Year's Day 2017, Appalachian Trail, Salisbury, CT

How does one go about rediscovering America? As I slipped on an icy spot on the trail, John Steinbeck came to mind—I don’t know why.  I had not read one of his books in decades, but what I was conjuring up had dual and complimentary elements--a trip to rediscover America and to gauge the pulse of the nation, and a challenge to open perspectives and to reconnect to self… something in the vein of Travels With Charley... but with more of a bite. The realization of the need for paradigm shifts came a bit later, but we’ll get into that farther along the trail.

How to do it? As we go through each trip and each training hike in preparation for climbing the three summer peaks of 2017--Mounts Shasta, Rainier and Baker--there will be new observations, cogitations, questions. How to rediscover this land, this nation, from purple mountain majesty and from sea to shining sea… from original ethos to the essence of its people a dozen generations later? More than a quarter century ago I told a reporter I believed the basic American character was one of integrity and honesty, altruism and a belief that we could help other people and other nations. Has that dissipated? Or been destroyed? Or is it still there, perhaps in hiding?

Are we truly are so different? Has niche marketing and niche news reporting stripped us of common anchors to such extent we no longer share similar aspirations; or worse, no longer consider ourselves to be countrymen? Are we all just this or that specific identity without any unifying glue? Race, ethnicity, gender, age, religion, sexual orientation, legal status, wealth and education levels, red state or blue… what’s your demographic? Does it, or do they, define you? Or is it limiting you and keeping you from a more fulfilling life?

In late 1971, during my second deployment (we didn’t use that term at the time), I filled the slot of an artillery group’s race relations officer. This group controlled one quarter of all land-based nuclear weapons in Europe, and par for the period racial tensions were simmering.  The military was going through a reduction in force, and junior NCOs (I was a Spec. 5), under the authority of senior commanders, were preforming duties far above their pay grade. Totally unqualified as I was, my commander, Colonel Harry Brooks (later Brigadier General and the first head of the Department of Defense’s Office of Equal Opportunity) mentor me in the paradigm shifts brought on by the Civil Rights movement. One of his lessons stuck with me: It is not a problem if young black soldiers or young white soldiers want to socialize with others of their own race; but it is a problem if a young black soldier or a young white soldier wants to socialize with soldiers of a different group and he doesn’t because either the soldiers of that group or the soldiers of his group ostracize him.

Has niche marketing and niche media lead to our ostracizing those who are not part of our demographic? I hear it reported continuously, but in my current limited experience I find something quite different. Why? That is something to be discovered.

Come, Let’s Talk America. Be part of the journey. Rediscover with me. I have a feeling we’re going to find that the amazing place called America might still be here, tarnished perhaps, but still strong of heart.